Technical Support

/Technical Support

Yes, adding to a ThermoDent product using the injection method and a fusing liquid will allow you to add to a ThermoDent Product. Just make sure to overlap wax a millimeter or two over the existing area to ensure a strong fuse is made.

It is possible to reline a ThermoDent full denture using acrylic and a fusing type liquid (either TCS Fusing Liquid or Valfuse seems to work best) but it is a temporary reline and not recommended for long term. You can reline a ThermoDent full denture with ThermoDent material through two different injection methods. For both methods please contact ThermoDent (A video will soon be made online with step by step instructions).

There is no monomer or acrylic added when creating ThermoDent. ThermoDent does though in fact have ThermoDent Acrylic that does match its standard pink that can be purchased if quick repairs are needed.

ThermoDent can be used in any machine that has a 25mm diameter cartridge opening and can reach the correct bars/psi pressure needed to inject correctly. Recommendation: ThermoDent uses the TCS automatic machine for any and all testing purposes and have seen this to work out the best. TCS also carries a hydraulic electric press that is even better and always consistent.

Shrinkage occurs when the cooling process isn’t fully followed.

If a ThermoDent product becomes brittle after injection it is due to either too high of temperature or cartridge being preheated for too long which will cause the material to burn and break down.

We recommend using Class III gypsum (plaster) for embedding and flasking of your models.

When flasking a full denture only one (1) sprue is necessary directly in the middle.

Yes! It is very important to put T-shape retention holes into each tooth making sure they connect to maximize retention.

Injection is recommended to be a minimum of 7bars/101psi for injection. If possible, raise pressure to 7.5-8.2bars/110-120psi to ensure injection is always made.

ThermoDents suggested temperature is 270°C/518°F.

It is recommended to pre heat flask for 15 minutes at 90°C/194°F  before injecting.

For best results, heat cartridge for 15 minutes before injecting.

After injection it is recommended you let bench set for 20 minutes before opening flask.

Yes, if you have rubber wheels, or even acrylic style burs, ThermoDent in most cases can be finished by using already existing materials! See training video for more details!

No, ThermoDent is easy to make adjustments and shaves off almost exactly like acrylics do. Just take a carbide bur and without too much pressure make your necessary adjustments. It isn’t recommended to hold a bur in a spot for too long though. ThermoDent still is a thermoplastic and if heated too much it can deform.

From our research, we have found that the most sufficient way to polish ThermoDent is using Pumice and Green High Shine that you would use for polishing metals. This has proven to be the simplest and least complex way to ensure a great polish and long lasting shine!

A short injection can be caused by a few different things. Two of the most common possibilities can be either the temperature is too low during the heating process, causing the material not to fully liquefy, or not enough pressure during the injection process. Another possibility is your sprues not being large enough for ThermoDent to pass by quickly enough, causing the material to harden. Solution: Using a thermometer, check the temperature and calibrate if necessary. Raise the pressure level and while using a gauge ensure correct pressure is met. When spruing, create a slightly larger canal to ensure injection flows smoothly and is not limited by space.

The most common reason for clasps not fully injecting is due to the thinness of the wax that was put on the model before flasking. To ensure complete injections on clasp areas, add a little more wax before flasking and injecting.

The most common reasons for loose teeth or teeth popping out of a final product are due to the preparation of the teeth. Whether it be too small of holes while making the T-joint, no T-joint at all, wax residue left in T-joint during boil out, or low temperature injection causing the material not to fully flow through T-joint. Solution: Use a minimum 1mm straight bur for preparation of teeth while creating the T-joint. Also ensure teeth are fully cleaned and all wax is melted out during the boiling process. Check heater temperature and calibrate if needed.

This is caused to thin plaster edges in the flask left over after boiling out your waxed product. Before injecting, round out thin sharp edges so during the injection they wont break and be carried into your injected product.

Discoloration is caused to too high of temperature in your heater or too long of time used in preheating the cartridge before injection is made. Make sure to check heater temperature and calibrate if needed. Also, a stop watch or loud timer is always a good way to keep track of how long you are preheating!